Durian (Genus Durio)—a fruit whose infamously pungent yet treasured flesh hides away beneath a spiky exterior—stands as possibly the paragon of Southeast Asia’s tropical produce. To the countless residents of Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand, Indonesia, Vietnam, and the many nearby island regions of sticky heat and relentless sunshine, it is the long-standing king of fruits with a complicated reception. A pillar of Southeast Asian cuisine that is believed to have originated from either Borneo Island or Malaya, durian can be found (and smelled) in virtually any context. While large mounds of soft durian meat are sold daily in hawker stall plastic boxes for a simple, casual treat, the fruit also graces porcelain plates in the form of delicious filling for pricey pastries. With that said, durian proves itself worthy of its title through more than just being versatile; the fruit not only a foundational ingredient of local cuisines, but also an embodiment of the complex flavors and history that conjoins Southeast Asian cultures.
To honestly try and provide an streamlined description of durian’s flavor is akin to asking a reader to offer up the “right” interpretation of any Shakespeare play—through the branching of countless breeds and the palettes of countless tasters, each person has their own understanding of the fruit’s unique profile. Despite this, there are still a few flavors that seem to compromise the universal durian-eating experience that people use as metrics to assess the taste of any given sample of the fruit; they usually consist of sweetness and bitterness, and occasionally, acidity.
Durian’s velvety custard—containing the fruit’s defining tang—melts easily on the tongue, embodying a surprisingly pliable texture for produce with such a formidable reputation. All of that golden treasure is enveloped by a thin membrane; in turn, this expanse of vaguely cocoon-shaped flesh also fits snugly into the compartments of its spiky shell. In total, the durian fruit can reach up to 30 centimeters (12 inches) tall and 15 centimeters (6 inches) in diameter. Depending on the variety, the color of durian meat may also vary, ranging anywhere from a pastel yellow to a vibrant vermillion. But for people pursuing high quality durians, the consensus is to usually aim for the fruits that exhibit a well-saturated flesh.
While the durian certainly has a…dynamic shape and taste, the same can be said for its nutritional value. As the king of the fruits, its contents don’t exactly disappoint in their consumption benefits. Rich in calories, fiber content, vitamins, and antitoxins, the durian fruit can and has been served as an entire meal. On the more technical side, these attributes of the durian can aid in reducing cholesterol levels and blood sugar, protecting the body from a myriad of common disorders.
Though perfect when served alone, durian’s distinctive taste is also used to enhance an assortment of dishes. Southeast Asia’s love for durian reaches far beyond conceivable boundaries; one trip around the region can introduce you to delicacies such as durian chocolate, durian mochi, durian ice cream—the list goes on. It’s not uncommon for people to experiment with novel flavors and ingredients from their environment. They pick up food habits, discover their value, and eventually bring that quirk or ingredient along as they migrate or allow it to pass through trade routes into new lands. Thus begins the process of culinary evolution—as such a staple of Southeast Asian tropical produce, it’s no wonder that the durian had enchanted the region’s ancestors even in the prehistoric times.
Yet this love is not shared by everyone. Globally, the durian may be well-known, but it is not always well-respected. One 19th century written record of the durian—penned by American historian Henry Adams—even reads as such: “The durian is, in my opinion, a fraud. I can see nothing to recommend it. Walnuts and very bad cheese, in a soft paste, with a horse-chestnut inside, would be as good.” Whether it be rooted in some kind of systemic distaste towards Southeast Asian culture or plainly rude dislike, the durian in modern times suffers from no less attack from people all around the world.
It is with hope that this article will encourage its readers to question and dismantle some of the prejudice they may have associated with durian, and be open to the fruit not only as an ingredient, but as a medium of cultural exploration. Perhaps you will never accommodate the taste of durian. But we ask you to at least appreciate the history behind the fruit and the value that others have instilled within it.
Sources:
https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/durian-fruit#downsides
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/agricultural-and-biological-sciences/durio
https://saigoneer.com/saigon-food-culture/13379-a-tale-of-two-fruits-the-colonial-history-of-durian-and-mangosteen
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